Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder

Most of this is by memory so please consult your manual(s) while doing this.

Symptoms to check for replacement are pulling the boot back and seeing a clutch fluid, fluid all over your oil pan and block and soft clutch.

Here is the new slave cylinder. I loosened the bleeder valve to make it easier to bleed under the car.
I took an old container (I think this had Beef Bouillon Cubes in it :) and made a hole in the lid to stick a hose through to bleed the slave.
I attached a piece of vacuum hose onto the bleeder valve for later on. This gives you an idea.

Now for the removal. The two arrows show where the 12mm bolts are that hold it to the transmission.

The dotted arrow is the eyebolt.

You have two choices, use a flare wrench and remove the slid arrow nut (10mm I think) and Risk stripping it or bending the line or

Take off the 14mm eye bolt. Since I had crummy wrenches, I took the eyebolt out. Have something handy to catch the fluid.

Note where the two crush washers are located on the eye bolt.

 

The eye bolt removed.
Remove the two 12mm bolts pointed out top of the page.

I used a long extension to have more room to twist the ratchet.

When the bolts are removed, the slave cylinder comes off.

Put the new slave on the same way as the old one came off.

Line the rod onto the clutch release arm.

Torque the slave to spec.

Remove the eyebolt from the new slave cylinder, and use the new bolt and new crush washers.

Note: this is the way I choose to do it.

Line it up carefully. DO not cross thread. Make sure you torque it to specifications.

Here it is installed and ready to bleed.

 

Remove the cap from the reservoir and fill it.

Find a volunteer to pump the clutch pedal for you at this point.

Refer to the first pics at the top of the page for the bleeder hose deal.

Here is the socket on the bleeder valve. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to grab the socket and loosen/tighten it during bleeding.

Submerse the end of the hose into clean brake fluid while bleeding. This keeps air from getting into the system.

Please check the manuals on bleeding, I suggest it strongly. What I did:

I had a helper pump the clutch 3 times. I opened the bleeder while it squirted out and then closed it. Repeated a bunch of times to flush the system. Check the master reservoir to make sure it does not go empty. If it does air gets in and wastes your time.

Finally, do the pump again and close the bleeder the best you can with the pliers. Pull the socket off and tighten it better with a box end wrench. Pump the clutch and it should be stiff. Inspect the slave boot for leaks as well as the inside of the firewall under the dash. That is where the master cylinder likes to leak.

Here is the nasty fluid I flushed out. I believe I went through more than a container of brake fluid. About 16 ounces total.

Take the car and try it out!

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