Drive Shaft Thump Fix (Carrier Bearing)

I read this on the VFAQ page and decided to take the pictures to go with the info. This is for a 1G, I have no idea if this applies to the 2Gs. Do at your risk!

Jack up the car and support it. Crawl or roll under the car towards the rear end. Pictured is the rear carrier bearing.

The thumping is believed to be caused by the up and down motion (arrow). This is a cheap fix using Silicone caulk to fill the boot around the bearing and build it back up.

I did this to the rear and front carrier bearings (pictures are of the rear).

Another picture. The arrows show where the nuts are that hold the carrier bearing up to the floor.

I removed some of the rubber exhaust hangers to move the exhaust out of the way. This enables more room for to get to the nuts and roll the bearing around.

Caulk gun with black silicone. You will need this soon.

Support the driveshaft with a jack or blocks so it doesn't fall down. Try to keep it level to prevent too much stress on the joints. Enjoy the pieces of rust and dirt in your face.

Using a 12mm socket, remove the two bolts.

NOTE: When removing the bushings, washers and nuts, keep them in order as you take them apart. It is easy to mix-up the order. There is one pic on this page that shows the bushing piece installed.

One removed, spin the bearing around and find the hole on the top. It will not spin all the way 180 degrees, so I had to move to the passengers side to see it.

Working from the side, Stick the end of the gun in and begin pumping the caulk gun. You need not press the tip in too hard. If none seems to be coming out (stiff trigger), back the tip out a little and try again. You will know when it is going in.

Once full, it will seep out as pictured. Wipe off that side with a rag.

I used a half of a tube to fill each bearing.

Here is one of the two holes on the bottom. Note the caulk seeping out of both holes. Now you know it is full.

Wipe it down removing the excess and do the other bearing the same way. This is the rear carrier bearing.


Here is the front after I finished.

I left it propped up on a block and box for 24 hours keeping it level as possible ( Actually, 72 hours........I decided to pull the turbo out and port it while waiting :).

Make sure to follow the drying time on your brand of caulk. Keep in mind thick globs of caulk take longer to dry than a thin bead.

I would wait at least 4 hours before mounting the bearing back up and another 20 hours before driving.