Fuel Pump Rewire 1G AWD

I know. There are other VFAQS on this. I suggest reading those along woth this one. However, I may cover something missed or give a different perspective. I do go into a lot of detail. This fixes the voltage drop problem to the fuel pump under WOT.

Here are some things you will need. I picked most of it up from Radio Shack.

10 Gauge wire, 12 Gauge Wire, 14 Gauge Wire, 30 AMP Auto Relay, 30 AMP 10 Gauge inline fuse holder, 12-10 Gauge Butt Connectors and Miscellaneous Solderless Connectors.
Here is a picture of a few items up close.

I added the connectors to the wire and setup the relay. The bottom of the relay is numbered.

You may use whatever size wires you wish. I used these sizes because I feel they will work best considering function and the size of the wire I'm tapping into.

  • 30 Use 10 Gauge wire. Goes to the battery. (Red Wire)
  • 87 I used 12 gauge for less drop. This goes to the Fuel Pump.(Blue Wire)
  • 86 I used 14 gauge. This goes to the car. It is a relay wire.(Yellow Wire)
  • 85 I used 14 gauge. This is grounded to the car's chassis.(Yellow Wire with added Black via Marker)

A detailed picture of the relay a few pics down.

At the back of the car, remove the fiber board panel and underneath you find the fuel pump next to the spare tire.

I carefully cut off the rubber around the wires and found the black wire with the white stripe. I scrapped off some of its insulation and checked the voltage while running to make sure this is the 12 Volt wire. It is.
I grounded the Yellow black wire (85 on relay) to an existing ground screw behind the panel. What Luck!
Here is a closer pic to show you the screw you can use. I added a solderless ring to the end of the wire.

I cut the black with white stripe closer to the pump to on the right side of the stock plug. It is known a foot away from the pump is fine. You may also go to the pump itself (see other VFAQ).

Add the blue wire (87 in the relay) with any method you desire (I used a butt connector) to the wire going to the pump. Add the other (yellow relay wire 86) to the one going to the stock plug.
This is a closer pic to show the where the stock wire is cut.

Here is a picture to show the relay wiring.

Now to test.

 

I ran a good amount of 10 gauge wire from the back to the front to test before running the wire through the car. I added the fuse holder before test and recommend doing this.

I also went ahead and added a solderless ring to mount the fuse holder wire to the top of the battery.

It tested fine so I cut the wire between the fuse and the back of the car.

Another pic of relay hooked up during test.

I ran the wire over the rear shock, under the plastic pieces (uggh) and the door plate (3 phillips screws). You may run it anyway you wish, therefore I did not take pictures. Make sure it's away from moving parts and doesn't get damaged or cut.

Here I taped the wire to a clothes hanger to help push it through the firewall.

The engine side where I pushed it trough. The dotted arrow shows the brake fluid reservoir for reference. The lower arrow is where I went in beside the line for the boost gauge. A previous owner put a hole in the grommet to make this real easy. You may want to do the same.
I ran the wire along the firewall and placed them through the stock wire holders that hold the flex tubing.
This shows it connected to the battery. I cut off the excess and connected with a butt connector. I then wrapped the connector with electrical tape.
I used the clip on the battery box to hold it down.
I used a nut and bolt to mount the relay inside the cover as seen in Pic. I also wrapped each connector with electrical tape. It kinda made a big plug for the relay. Pretty huh??

Of course I wrapped the wires by the pump with electrical tape.

If for someone reason the pump dies due to the relay, no extra fuse, short in 10 gauge or other wire, just attach the blue and yellow wire together by cutting or however and return it to stock.

Put all the plastic covers and pieces back on and take it out for a spin.

 

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