2G Clutch Master Cylinder Install


Long story short I decided to replace the Master Cylinder completely. After the installing the Clutchmasters 2500 stage1 I was having pedal issues. You may also choose to rebuild your old Master cylinder as well. I may do that with the old one and make another FAQ. This is just tips on pulling out the master clutch cylinder.

Remember brake fluid is bad to get on the paint of your car, bad for skin, mouth and eyes as well. Do at your own risk!

Here is the new master cylinder. I bought it from the autoparts store for $68. The mitsu part number is: MB910562

First you need to go under the car and break loose the slave cylinder bleeder valve (my 1G slave page is here). Place a bucket or pan to catch the brake fluid. Press the clutch pedal down and pump out the fluid. Extract fluid from reservoir if needed.

Starting with the reservoir. Remove the two12mm bolts.

Remove the clamp and the hose from the Reservoir. You may need a rag handy to catch the fluid.
Now is a good time to clean all the black gook out of the master cylinder reservoir. I just used a rag. Make it clean.
Now go in the car under the driver's dash. Take a 12mm wrench to break free the adjuster nut on the rod.

You can battle the cotter pin or twist the push rod out of the bracket (what I did). Everything on mine looked good and no wear (50K miles). The fact there is no fluid pressure makes rolling the rod out easy to do.

The dotted arrow shows the 12mm bolt to remove next.

With a swivel extension remove the 12mm nut from the firewall.
Now go back and remove the other 12mm nut under the hood on the firewall.
To make life easier remove the 12mm bolt the holds the lines down. This allows you to move them up and out of the way. Be careful.

Now lift up slightly on the master cylinder so you can place the flare nut wrench (10mm) on the line fitting.

If You have an angled flare nut wrench do this before removing the unit. It will be easy.

I used a big flat head screw driver in the hole to steady the cylinder while breaking the nut free. Careful you do not bend the lines too much. They will bend a little.
Now gently press the line downward and pull the master cylinder unit out over the top of the line as shown.
Remove the bracket if you are not going to use it. Once again depending on your mileage you may want to. If so, now is the time to replace it under the dash.

There is a cheap gasket on the firewall around the hole. Tack it back with a little RTV. Mine ended up getting messed up.

Using the same procedure attach and tighten the 10mm line fitting (if you have the flat style flare nut wrench). Secure the reservoir hose to the new nipple.

Line it up into the whole and go inside the car. Start the lower nut and snug it down.

The dotted line shows the dust cover. Mine in this pic is a tad kinked so remove the nut and realign to avoid tearing the dust boot.


Tighten the outside 12mm nut and then go back under the dash.

Tighten the other 12mm nut and run the rod back into the bracket on the clutch pedal. Make sure you get the rod pretty close to where it as on the old setup.

Replace the reservoir. Hose attached first and then the two 12mm bolts.

Finally, put the bolt back into the bracket holding the lines in place.

Bleed the clutch system and Adjust pedal height using a shop manual, the many VFAQs or articles out on the web.