All of the head parts are bagged and labeled for the reinstall.

I checked them to match them to the specs in the manual (valves straight, cams, springs straight, etc...)

I took the time to change the knock sensor while the head was off. This is usually tough to get to so I suggest change it now while you have the room.

Here is my very short VFAQ on how to do it.

I soaked the lifters one at a time in brake cleaner per VFAQ. You want to keep them in order so they return to where they were located if reusing them.

I used the paper clip in the top hole and depressed them up and down in the cleaner.

I turned the inside of the lifter 180 degrees so the inner side hole lined up with the outer and shot cleaner through them.

Warning: It will shoot out of the top far so be careful. Also, wear gloves. My hands were in bad shape from not doing so.

Once they are dry, prime them with oil by depressing a paper clip in the top and moving up and down. Make sure you empty all of the oil out. You do not want them full when you start the car! Place it back into it's numbered bag when finished.

The VFAQ page has this procedure in more detail.

I polished the intake top so it would look better. I used a drill and a wire wheel.

I also ported the runners (pics on page 4) and cleaned it out. I did not show how I did this. Extrude honing is the best method anyway.

I polished the valves. I used a buffing wheel with a very fine disc. I would suggest letting a machine shop do this for you. This is critical so I did not show the process.

I took a lot of time and did it waiting on the head to be milled.

Another picture of a valve.

Also, I used emery cloth (real real fine) to remove any burrs on the valves. It is important to make sure they slide in the guides w/o sticking or tearing the guide up.

Everything needs to be very very clean going back in to the valve guide.

I put in new injector insulators from the head rebuild kit.

Call Conicelli's for this kit. He can get you the right parts for the car.

Putting in the new valve seals. I used a 12mm socket (it rested on the metal and not the rubber part).

I screwed it on to the stem to get it started and then tapped it with a rubber mallet the rest of the way down.

DO this carefully! You do not want to damage the seals. Once again, there is a VFAQ on this procedure.

Using a magnet to hold the keeper in place. I dabbed some grease on the keeper to help it stick to the valve.

I used the magnet to line it up in the socket and the screw driver to hold it to the valve while removing the magnet.

Unscrewed the C clamp and it is back in.

Here is one side back together.

I did a little porting on the runners of the head. Due to the danger of messing the head up, I did not take pictures.

I used the old seal to tap the new one in place. I did not have a big enough socket anyway.

Tap the new one in.