FMIC Install 1993 AWD Talon

I picked up a Greddy FMIC from a friend and decided to use it for now. Later I will probably upgrade depending on the rest of the mods. 2 Web Pages of pictures total.

Here are some pictures to show the procedure. Due to the many different FMICs, I concentrate more on the minor details of removing the front end and so on. This will give you an idea of what is involved.

Be careful and use goggles, gloves, long sleeves (burned up my arms), pants (not shorts) if you use an angle grinder or other metal cutting tools. Consult manuals for anything I missed.

Do all Repairs at Your Own Risk!
Remove the headlight and side marker assembly (10mm bolts) and unplug the harnesses. Any manual should cover this.

Remove the bolts from the front plate (10mm) and the clips (and Phillips screwdriver).

The plastic clips with the Phillips screws are available from Mitsubishi dealers (Part #MB406894). I suggest getting some extras for future use since they break a lot. They are all over the car: nose, splash guards and so on.

Remove the same clips (mentioned above) from the wheel wells. This removes the splash guard from the front end.

Arrows show the 3 you need to remove.
There are two bolts (10mm) that hold the front end (lower) to the body of the car (arrows). Soak them with PB Blaster or WD-40 and remove them. They are usually rusty and like to break.

The bolts mentioned above. Remove them from under the splash guard.

Repeat all the steps on the passenger side.

Disconnect the harness from the fog lights.

Remove the four (2 per side) 14mm nuts that hold the bumper to the car.

This will enable the front end to slide off of the car.

Pull slowly and double check that everything else is disconnected before forcing it off.

Here it is removed. The arrow points out the 10mm bolt to remove the power steering coolant line bracket.

Be careful not to bend or kink the line.
Remove the hood latch bar from the front of the car (3 or 4 10mm bolts).

I used a worm gears clamp to tie it back out of the way. I padded the line with old rubber hose to prevent the clamp from cutting into it.

Do not overtighten the clamp. You just want to hold it back.
I padded this part of the line as well. Anywhere it touched something, I padded it. Place the bracket back in place.

I choose to cut the latch bracket while on the car. Be careful of the coolant line or cut it first and then put it back on. Place the coolant line behind the bracket.

This will make room for the FMIC.
You will notice I made the latch bracket one flat piece. I also made a bracket for the FMIC leaving room for it to fit underneath.

Here is the mounted FMIC. I used two bolts to hold it on. I mounted it to the top bracket then made a bottom bracket last after leveling it off.

I bolted it to the bottom of the car. As I said before, different FMICs mount different ways.
One of my favorite wedding gifts from a friend (Thanks Bill!), a reciprocating saw. This is handy for hacking holes for the piping. I picked up some heavy duty blades for metal.

You need to widen the hole for the pipe to pass through.

Move all wires, coolant reservoir and the AC line (bends, be careful not to break or cut that!) out of the blades path. See pic below.

The dotted line shows where I cut.
The other side where I removed the Coolant Reservoir bottle (arrow) and wiring harness from firewall (dotted arrow).

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