EVO 16G Install on a 2G Eclipse

Growing very tired of the T-25 I purchased a EVO 16G from slowboyracing, SB 2G install kit, RRE J-Pipe and the EVO O2 from Conicelli's Anyway, I had to break this up in several pages. Porting pictures are here

This is a long FAQ. I tried to stay focused on certain helpful things since there are other FAQs on this. Do at your own risk.

Get the manifold hot and break free the four 14mm Studs and nut. Hope they do not break.

The Lines show the big studs/bolt. The dots show the 12 and 14mm nuts that need to be moved as well.

Remove the fan in front of the turbo (4 10mm bolts) and the plug to the fan. Makes it easier to get to all the bolts.

Remove the 12mm bolts that hold the heat shield on.

The arrow shows the O2 sensor.

Go under the car and using tin snips or a cutter of some kind, cut along the dotted lines. This will allow the heat shield to come up and off the stock O2 housing.
Now you can easily get a wrench on the O2 housing and break it free.
Unplug the O2 sensor from under the water neck. It is a snap together plug.
Start on the manifold nuts. The one nice thing about the 2G is you do not need to remove the Power steering pump.
Depending on how old the car is you may get lucky and be able to pull the stud now using vise grips. I was lucky and it came out. I also shot it with PB Blaster before I started.
Manifold removed.

Place a pan below the drain plug (arrow) and loosen it to drain the coolant.

The lines show where the fan was mounted with 10mm bolts.

Remove the MAS intake and the upper radiator hose. This gives you room to work.

I drained the pan first since I am changing the oil anyway. Plan on changing the oil. This way you have fresh oil in the turbo and you can remove the filter for the oil feed install.

Place a pan under anyway and remove the lower oil return pipe (two 10mm nuts). You will want to order new bolts and washers from Mitsubishi to replace with the 1G line later.

Now, the lower water hose will leak a lot of coolant. What I did was got some spare 3/8" hose and removed the old hose. I immediately put the extra hose on and aimed it towards the bucket (See arrow).

The reason is the coolant likes to run down the cross member and everywhere else. It is hard to catch when it does that.

Remove the upper water line to the turbo. It does not leak much at all.

With a flare wrench, remove the top oil feed.

Look around the turbo and remove the 10mm nuts that hold the bracket for the lines as well.

Here is the stainless oil feed line from slowboyracing.

You will need to remove the fitting shown by the arrow. Oh yeah, I removed the oil filter during the draining of the pan.

A flare wrench works best here. I believe it is 12mm.

Also, remove the bracket that holds the line to the block as shown. 14mm bolts I think.
Mine was stripping so since I am removing the whole line, I took cutters and cut the line as shown.
Using a deep well 17mm socket and 1/2 " drive, I removed the entire fitting.
Put some Teflon on the threads of the new oil feed line elbow and thread it in. It will only go in about 2 turns and catch.

Use a 17mm wrench and tighten it snug but do not overtighten it. You can break the oil filter housing f you over tighten it.

Attach and tighten the line onto the elbow when you have it in a good position.

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