Drive Shaft Page 3
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Using a gear puller, remove the inner carrier bearing.
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Clean and lightly grease the spline.
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Place the new carrier bearing on evenly and out
the outer piece back on.
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Place the new nut and washer on and repeat the steps from page 2 on how to tighten it (slowly press it together). Make sure the bearing goes on straight and on the spline correctly. |
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You may want to save some time and have a machine
shop do this if you are not comfortable. Place the new u-joint into
the shaft.
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IMPORTANT: These joints (the ones from Mitsu) come pre greased. If you add more grease Add very little. Too much will prevent the caps from going down past the circlip point and you have to reverse the procedure. You do not want to have to do that....believe me. I used the OEM expensive joints because I wanted the right ones and these are beefier than any Mitsubishi u-joints the parts store had. Also, no grease fitting. The grease fitting is where they usually break if you are gonna break them.
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Make sure the caps are started in the holes level
and straight. Slowly press them together as far as you can.
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One method is using a big C Clamp and 17mm Socket. Press past the circlip ridge. Too far will be a pain so stop and try to get it just BARELY past the ridge just enough to secure the clip into place. |
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Here is the new circlip.
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Clip the one side and flip it over.
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Now, I used a gear puller to grab the bottom and press the other side in. The clip on the other side held it in place. Once again, past the ridge and put the other circlip in. |
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Now repeat the process throughout the driveshaft. I took a scribe and made a good groove (not too deep) so I could sand the shaft down and paint it. |
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Here is the painted shaft. I just lightly covered it for rust proofing and make it look newer. Very important to keep an eye on where the mating marks (scribes) are. Tape off the rubber parts. |
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Now for the Lobro Joint. Cleaned it and lightly
coated with grease.
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I packed the other side with new grease after clening it out to inspect it. I did not replace it.
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Lightly coat the gasket with grease....yes grease. Place it back into the position where it was.
Using you marks, line it up as it was and put it back together. |
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Use new nuts and washers if you have them. Tighten
them all in sequence and to spec.
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Now for the carrier bearing washers. Here are the inside bushing pat numbers. Actually, I need to get all of the numbers. You can call the dealer and ask for all the parts you need: Carrier Bearings (2), nuts/bolts, washers for shaft and joints (4) and (6), big nuts (2), Big Washers (2), Carrier bushings (4) . You may want to do the Transfer case seal and the yoke that goes into the transfer case. Refer to the VFAQ for the Yoke. I filled mine with RTV per the VFAQ. |
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Here is how they are installed. Goes in as seen
in pic bottom is bottom of picture. Top is to the floor of the car
(up).
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Hoist the shaft up (Bungee cords or blocks to hold it up) keep it level. Place the yoke into the transfer case using the marks you made earlier (CAREFUL not to hit the xfer case seal too hard). Install the carrier bearings and DO NOT overtighten and snap them. That would stink. Lastly, attach the shaft to the rear differential using four new nuts, bolts and washers. Reconnect exhaust and let her rip!
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