Drive Shaft Rebuild. Carrier Bearing and U-Joints

This is a long VFAQ. The procedure is tough as well. It helps to have a big vise, gear puller and a mess of tools. The pressing of the U-Joints may be best done at a machine shop. That was no fun to do.

I would call a Mitsubishi Dealer and order all new parts. Best to do it now. This includes: Carrier Bearings (A Must), Yolk that goes into the transfer case (Mine has a groove in it from the xfer case seal, probably causing the leak) U-Joints (I got the Montero ones from the local store but they had a grease fitting {they usually break on the hollow part around the fitting} also the inner part was not as wide as the OEM. Cost more but I know I got the right ones), The bushings for the bearings (the pieces that hold it to the underside of car), the Big Nuts in driveshaft itself, Washers, and Lobro Joint nuts and washers. I will list the part numbers late or you can call Conicelli's and request the parts.

Consult all manuals. Do at your own risk!!!

Block the front wheels, Jack the rear of the car up and support it with jack stands.

This may not be the best way to jack up.

Take white out and mark the shaft at every joint. It looks ugly but you want to keep it in balance. From my understanding, you need to put it back the way it was.
More pics of my marks. I will paint the whole shaft later in FAQ and go over the white out mark with a scribe.

I used a bungee cord and made it taught to hold the shaft up during the removal procedure.

The pan is for the Transfer case juice when I pull the yoke out.

Remove the carrier bearing bolts. There are 4 total (Two Carriers) and they are 12mm nuts. Try to keep the parts in order so you can see how it goes back together. You may need to take the exhaust hanger off to move the pipe out of the way.
I used a block of wood to keep the drive shaft up and moved to the next carrier bearing.
Now remove the joint at the rear end. (4 nuts and bolts 12mm).
Loose and ready to come out. Pull it down to remove it. See next pic.

I detached the exhaust hangers in the middle and rear of exhaust. This allowed me to move it to the side a little and out of the way of the shaft. The shaft would have come down on top of exhaust had I not moved it.

Your exhaust may be different.

Remove the shaft from the xfer case. MAKE A MARK ON BOTH! Just to be safe :)
Lower the rear and pull the whole shaft out the back of the car (Driver's side).

Now, time for the fun.

I sprayed all circlips (arrow) with PB Blaster.

Here are circlip pliers.I actually bought a better pair from Sears (Professional). Will get a pic later. These cheap pliers barely made it through this FAQ.

Remove all four circlips on each cap.

You may need to use a small screwdriver to tap circlip loose if really rusted or you could bend the pliers.

Use a precision or small screwdriver to lift it out. Watch your eyes! They can fly around your face occasionally.

Okay, this is how I did it. I experimented different methods.

Find a socket a touch bigger than the cap hole (24mm I believe) and set the Joint on it. Use a 17mm socket and tap it downward. Try not to scar up the inside of the cap hole!

Once enough of the cap is out.
Use a pair of vise grips and remove the old cap.

Cap removed. Repeat the whole procedure on the other three sides.

When the caps are off the joint will move to one side and the other side will come out of the yoke.

If you have a big Gear puller (like this one). You can press the old one out using the same two sockets.

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