Prothane Driver's Side Motor Mount
Block the rear wheels with something to prevent rolling backwards. Jack the car up and place on jack stands. Using whiteout, mark the relationship of the engine with the frame of the car. See transmission mount page.
 |
I used a piece of wood close to the drain plug of the oil pan. I also used the scissors jack on the transfer case to help relieve the stress on the oil pan. I also did one mount at a time to keep the load on the jacks to a minimum. I started by using the scissors jack first. I just barely added tension. I finally used the jack and wood on the oil pan. Do not try to jack up too high. You just want to keep the engine up to get the mounts off. You will understand why when you reinstall the new mounts. Less movement from the original position of the motor the better! |
 |
Remove the bolt holding the power steering pump line
to the mount (12mm).
|
 |
Remove the top bolt from the little bar attached to
the mount bracket by the fan belts (12mm).
|
 |
With a 14mm socket, remove the top two bolts and the
two nuts from the mount bracket. Four total.
|
 |
Remove the two nuts the hold the rod in the mount.
(14mm)
|
 |
Using a 17mm socket, remove the nut from the other
side of the rod.
|
 |
Slide the rod out. I greased it once it was out to
help install it later.
|
 |
Work around the power steering line as best as possible and pull the whole bracket assembly out of the car. You may decide to remove the hose from the top of the power steering pump. If so, have a container under it and catch the fluid. Try to avoid it if possible for it is messy. |
 |
Here is the old mount. It is really broken. Yes, that crack is not supposed to be there. I knew it was broken while in the car still because I stuck a big screwdriver in between it and the bracket and moved it easily. You can use this to test yours before you do the change over. |
 |
That popped out easily. At this point you need to
go to the old mount/sleeve
removal page.
|
 |
Here is the new insert in. You may have to insert the prothane differently depending on the car. Try to get it in temporarily or close and check your white out engine position marks. If it is off, try rotating the mount until the marks are correct. You do not want to do this again.... believe me. Now comes the tough part, getting the mount bracket in and aligned. |
 |
Work the bracket in around the power steering line. Do not bust or force the line. Get the prothane part into the cut out. Try to get the two studs (over PS Pump) into the bracket. If you have my luck, it will be off. You can jack the engine or lower it to see if this helps align these bolts. Do not take it too far up or down. Just a little at a time.
|
 |
Take a screw driver get it lined as best you can then use a ratchet extension (3/8") and line up the sleeve by tapping it in. Take the greased rod assembly and slide it through and snug the bolts. Tighten later but not now. You want some play for installing the other bolts/nuts. |
 |
I managed to get the two studs over the PS pump into the bracket but the back part (pictured) was off. To prevent stripping the block or bolts, I pried on the bracket using a bar and a hammer handle. As I pushed I started the two bolts into the block. Make sure you do not cross-thread them! If they feel tight then it is probably wrong. |
 |
Torque all of the bolts back to spec. Lastly, torque the rod through the mount itself. Add you PS line bracket back and the other bracket by the belts. Take it out ....... shake, rattle and roll. |