2G Gauge Install (Boost, Air Fuel and Bezel Mount Pods)

2 pages but I think I covered a lot. Since I am new to the 2Gs, I had to figure out as I went along.

Here are the goods. Bezel pod mount insert. Autometer Boost and Autometer Air Fuel Gauges.

These are the "Z" series. I wanted black face to match my stock gauges and that stealth look.

The part numbers are: 2614 (Boost), 2675 (Air) and 20012 Bezel Mount pods.

Remove the two screws pictured and lower the steering wheel down. Now you should be able to pull the stock bezel out.

Remove the four 10mm bolts by removing the top plastic covers that hide them. The 2 other bolts are below where the arrows point.

You may want to remove the hood release lever as well (2 Phillips screws and push the cable out of the hole).

Disconnect the NEG battery terminal before starting.

Once under the dash, I removed the bracket that the lower dash bolts to (see above). It would be over the clutch pedal for reference.

This allows you to see the dimmer switch plug. If you are not hooking the boost gauge light to the dimmer, skip this step.

Run your vacuum line however you wish. I had a hole from the monster wire running to the Amp so I took no picture.

You can run it beside the speedometer cable for example.

Since the nylon did not stay in the "T" fitting, I added some RTV a good ways away from the hole on the end. Did'nt want to block it up.

Then I cut a piece of vacuum hose (has to fit tight) and the RTV provides a good seal once dried. I slid the hose over the RTV and worked it around.

Finally, I added the "T" Fitting.

The dotted line shows the line you want to tap the boost gauge into for a 2G. I cut it pretty close to the fuel regulator.
Add the "T" fitting in and that part is done.

Now for mounting the gauges.

I took a black marker and went around the gauges on the white part. That way, if the slip out a little, it isn't white and noticeable.

I went around once, let it dry and went around it again.

See. No white. Then just press the gauge in all the way (picture shows it NOT pressed in all the way).
I mounted the gauge and then later realized (see ahead in FAQ) that the bolt will hit the speedometer cover. The inside bolts have to be cut down to match the curve of the Bezel.
The bezel mount with gauges.

Now back to wiring the boost gauge light. Under the dash above where your left foot would be, you will find the back of the dimmer control.

Push the top of the plug and unhook it.

You should have enough wire to pull it out to work on it.

There is a green wire (may have a white stripe...anyway, it's the only green wire:) and the black with yellow stripe. The middle wire you do not cut or use.

Shave the insulation off the 2 outer wires. Connect the light up to test (Put neg terminal back on battery, of course). It should go dim with all of the other dash lights. Reverse if needed.

Now connect longer wires up so you can run up through the dash.

I tapped the white from light to green and black from light to the Black with yellow stripe.

I used old CPU speaker wire. Tape it all up and plug the dimmer switch plug back in.

Disconnect battery again after testing light.

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