AT Transmission Tips and FAQs
Hopefully this page will clear up FAQs and eliminate the same questions answered over and over. Oh yeah, and help you out as well. These are suggestions and opinions. Do everything at your own risk.
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AT Transmission Fluid Recommendation:
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The fluid is the "blood" of the transmission and I only recommend the following fluids. Mitsubishi Diamond Star ATF & B&M Trick Shift. I have used both. Due to the cost being the same as Diamond Star, I have used B&M Trick Shift and had no problems for 3 Years. Others recommend the following as well: Chrysler ATF and Amsoil. Stick to this list and not put in anything else. Not unless you like to gamble.
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Where to Drain the Fluid:
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The picture shows the plugs to remove and drain the old fluid. It is recommended to do this every 30K miles along with the filter. I have always done it around 20K or when I change something (IE Shift Kit). Remove the two plugs and let it Drain. The one on the Pan is 17mm the other is 24mm (I think). The capacity is about 5 to 8 Quarts after draining pan and diff. Better to buy extra and be safe. Start with 5 Quarts and then check the levels accordingly (See How to check the Transmission Fluid below:).
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Filter info and Removing the Pan:
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As mentioned above it is recommended to change the filter regularly. The reason is the transmission relies on fluid and pressure to function correctly. A dirty filter can clog up and kill the performance. Check your shop manuals for the Torque Specifications First! Here are some numbers to give to parts stores to ensure you get the right stuff. The first filter kit I got I told the guy car make and so on. Got home and it was wrong. After calling other stores, the same part number (wrong one) kept coming up. This way you can call ahead and order if needed. These numbers are for the F4A33 tranny. If you are using doing a FWD Turbo Talon or Eclipse, just can tell them you need a kit for a Stealth non turbo. The filter kit is the Beck/Arnley Filter kit. It has a neoprene gasket (black rubber). The neoprene gasket requires precise torque (86-106 IN pounds) applied to the Pan bolts (10mm) or it will pull the gasket or smash it. You will leak if this happens. I have been using the fiber gaskets more due to this problem. Make Sure the Screws that hold the Filter to the Valve body are the right length VERY Important! The filter MUST seal against the valve body. Part#044-0245 * If you want to go back into the pan and change the shift adjuster you will most likely ruin the gasket so grab and extra if you are doing a shift kit install. The gasket only, I found two numbers: Fel-Pro #TOS 18703 replaces MD738078 (Mitsu Number). ATP Part#TG107 (not verified*) Other filter kits: Fram Part # FT-1153 (cork gasket) AC DELCO Part# TF 284 (not verified*) ATP Part# JX150 (also not verified*) Pro-King kit from AdvanceAuto, #FK230 *not verified means I have cross reference the numbers on the web, so I have not seen or used. The others (fram, felpro and beck) I have purchased and used. To remove the pan remove the 14 (10mm) bolts that hold it up. Drop the pan. You may need to lightly tap it with a rubber mallet to break the gasket free. DO NOT pry with a screwdriver. You could damage the area where it seals.
To seal the pan I have always used this RTV. Apply on both sides of the gasket. Install Pan and let it set for a few hours to dry before adding fluid. The RTV I use is Permatex #80016 2BR. It has worked the best so far for stopping leaks. I check my car a lot and it does not leak at all (knock on wood). Also, this RTV is black so it blends in better in most cases. Add fluid (see FAQ below). After driving some, go back and double check the 10mm pan bolts. Tighten if needed.
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How to check the Transmission Fluid:
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To check the fluid do this: Warm car to normal operating temp (drive it). Take shifter (E Brake on, so you don't move around during this and on level ground) and run the shifter slowly through the gears. P-R-N-3-2-1-2-3-N. Clean the dipstick off. Put it back in.......Check dipstick while car is in Neutral. It should be at the Hot mark (line on dipstick) when car is good and hot (normal operating temp). The cold mark is no good due to fluid expansion etc. By checking the fluid Hot you are getting the fluid to the highest level possible. This alleviates all guessing. Overfill and you will know once it gets Hot, it usually spews out of dipstick. This creates a mess of smoke and scares you and other motorists around you..... That happened to me 100 miles into a trip many years ago AFTER a Dealer/Shop changed my fluid and filter. The capacity is about 5 to 8 Quarts after draining pan and diff. If you overfill it. Drain it and get it right. Blowing seals means rebuild. So check it yourself to be safe!
Above is a picture of the AT dipstick location.
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What kind of transmission do you
have?:
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Here is a small list so you can determine your transmission type: 2000 GTX 92-94 AWD 2.0L W4A32
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What Do the Numbers Mean?:
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Mitsubishi
Chrysler
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