2G AWD Suspension Install
This covers installing Tokico Illuminas and Eibach Pro-Kit. Also, I show the RRE rear camber kit install. I did not go into doing the spring compression in detail. See my 1G Shocks pages for that.
3 pages total.
DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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Remove the 14mm nuts.
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Loosen the 14mm strut bolt but do not remove it. BTW, I tried to remove it and raised the car up to decompress the spring and it did not work. Not enough room with the 2G setup to pull the shock. I had to relower it and put the nut on. |
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Jack the car up and put it securely on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Pictures of what needs to be removed. Sway bar link to shock tower. |
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Lower control arm bolt.
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Shock holder.
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Remove the shock holder first (17mm). I suggest a
little PB Blaster.
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Next remove the sway bar link. Here is the deal. Some have a nut in back to hold the bolt from turning. Mine had the dreaded Allen hex setup. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster and held it in place with a hex bit. Using a 14mm wrench I gently removed the nut. See bottom of page for the sway bar link part number and "what if it strips" pictures. I stripped the inside (hex part) on the passenger side. |
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Assuming the nut comes off, tap out the sway bar link.
It helps to pry downward on the sway bar while doing it with a long
pipe or jack handle.
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Loosen the 17mm lower control bolt and nut. Remove
the bolt.
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With the bolt removed the shock holder can come down. See next page. |
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Here is the sway bar link from Mitsubishi. Note: it
does NOT have the hex setup. This one has a 14mm nut in the back to
hold the bolt. What a great idea.
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I took a dremel with a cutting disc and cut off the
old rusty stuck nut.
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Right down the center. Dotted line shows the cut.
I peeled it off with a screwdriver and repeated the whole process for
the sway bar side.
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Put the link in the sway bar first and tighten it
to spec. Here I show the new link with the 14mm wrench to hold the bolt
from turning :).
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